- 14% off
historic low on CCC
Nothing beats this for the price in the UV printing segment. Used to own a Photon for a few weeks but the ringing was terrible.
Note this one has an RGB LCD not greyscale UV, you won’t get 2s per layers but for the price you can’t go wrong. Also, most replacement parts are sold on amazon at OK prices.
If you don’t know anything about 3D printing, I suggest you try FDM first (plastic filament), UV Printing can be a little messy (and toxic ) , but nothing beats the quality especially if you want to do anything miniature and detailed.
if you want more resolution and faster print time and bigger build size, the Elegoo Saturn might be shipping in volume for xmas if you can wait that long. Latest Preorders are supposed to arrive in september. Not clear if they will go all in on production or do a 3rd pre-order batch, the demand is crazy, they sold out 2000 units in less than 5 minutes.
ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5” Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53″(L) x 2.56″(W) x 5.9″(H) Printing Size-Black Version
【Fast Slicing Software】ELEGOO Mars comes with the latest version of ChiTu Box Slicing Software which gives you extraordinary user experience. ChiTu Box takes only 1 minute to slice 30Mb .stl model files while the open-sourced slicing software would take up to 10minutes.
【Resin saving and Better Printing】ChiTu Box allows you to hollow out your model before slicing which could save your resin dramatically during photocuring process. Equiped with 40W UV lights and using ELEGOO resin, you can get a better pritning result.
【Smart and Convenient】3.5” inch color touch screen equipped with the latest ELEGOO ChiTu 5.0 system makes it very easy for off-line printing. The build platform with steel ball balancing structure inside allows you to start printing within 5 minutes after assembly. ”
【High Precision and Resolution】ELEGOO Mars uses a 2560×1440 2K HD masking LCD as to provide accurate printing with XY axis resolution of 0.00185inches / 0.047mm
Amazon product: ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5” Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53″(L) x 2.56″(W) x 5.9″(H) Printing Size-Black Version
I’ve been printing using FDM printers for years now and there’s always that one thing you really want to make but you just know deep down no matter how finely tuned your printer is and how carefully you place the supports, it’s going to never print those thin hands/wings properly and the supports are going to leave a marred surface on it’s underside. | I figured I’d grab the Mars now, I know the “Pro” comes out likely in a few weeks, but to be honest there’s nothing wrong with the current Mars printer. | Setup was insanely fast vs FDM, and as long as you follow the instructions and are careful your first prints will be fine. The printer itself is really nice looking and very well made, it’s prints are a whole different level of awesome detail wise, and come out looking like an actual molded or casted item, the only downside really is the resin, it’s messy and everything you touch with it will stay sticky until you wipe it down with IPA. | Oh and contrary to what some shams say on YouTube, Simple Green/Mean Green won’t work worth a !@$# so don’t waste your time, just use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning. I tried alternatives thinking I could get away with it and even with an industrial ultrasonic cleaner the garbage didn’t remove all the resin residue off models. | Here’s a few key tips to get the best start: | -Make sure you level the actual printer using the screw feet. | -Carefully remove the print build plate and make sure the retainer set screw is working to avoid a broken screen. | -Replace the build plate and tighten the main knob, then loosen both the front and right lock screws so the plate can move freely and also depress a bit, this will help when you level and avoid damage to the lcd. | -Do the paper levelling technique in the manual, it works, I don’t know why anyone would do anything else… | -Follow the curing times on the side of the resin container, the reddit chart is very wrong sometimes. | -Use PrusaSlicer setup as an SL1 to auto-orient the model, and add supports (chitubox’s are crap), modify the pad to have a 45 degree angle so it pops off easy when you hit it with the scraper. | -Export the entire thing from PrusaSlicer (pad/supports/models) as an stl, then open in Chitubox to do the final layout, and Slice. | -Profit! (hopefully) It worked for me, first try and second and third even! No sticking to FEP or screwed up models. | -Carefully remove models from build plate after done | -Wash in IPA, rinse in IPA, be one with IPA | -Cure using crazy contraption made on FDM printer using UV floodlight a cheap rotating display and aluminum foil *(warranty void if purchased) | I used the Grey Elegoo Resin (non-abs type) and found it works great. The Abs-type is supposedly a bit more flexible but meh, it’s also like $15 CAD more a litre. | Happy Printing and don’t forget to wear gloves because the resin is evil. (It doesn’t smell bad really at all except when you open the print lid).